Old English Sheepdog Puppy Tips

FOOD

Puppies have been raised on Purina Puppy Chow, dry food not moistened. They need a diet of puppy food until they are six months old. Read the labels carefully and select a feed that has the highest nutrients. For a treat I cook organ meat, liver kidneys etc. with rice for the pups around every second day. Our adult dogs and the pups have free choice feeding at all times, that means there is always food available for them. Dogs will never over eat when they are used to having food available. More important than food is to have fresh clean water available at all times. You can probably estimate that a full grown OES will eat a 18kg bag of dry dog food each month.

TIME

The time you invest with your pup when they are young is the single factor that is going to contribute most to the relationship you will develop. Treat your pup with love and discipline and you’ll be proud to take them anywhere and everywhere with you. Talk to them as though they are your friend and they will become your friend. The pups are happiest when they can spend a lot of time with their family. I will not a sell a pup to a family that does not have a fenced yard as I do not like to see any dogs chained up. Families who can make the investment of their time and love in the early months will find their pup will grow into a loving friend that will give them endless joy.

KENNELS

I have never used a kennel and personally don’t care for them but they do have a place with some families and many people will say it is the only way to go. All of our dogs started off as house dogs for the first year or so. I always keep them in as small an area as possible, we have a boot room which is perfect, many people find a small bathroom works well as the pups often like to sleep behind the toilet where it is cool. Your pup will be much happier outside as opposed to indoors, at first they will find it too warm after what they are used to. A small blanket or cushion can provide just the same results as a kennel.

HOUSE TRAINING

Just allow your new pup to come into the house on invitation, and when you are watching closely, especially when they are small. Gradually you develop a trust. All of our dogs know their boundaries and they will not leave the boot room unless invited, (although the door is never closed now they are older). As for house training, keep lots of newspaper in the small area close to the door, watch your pup, if they have a drink then ten minutes later they will need to go outside (maybe sooner). If the are eating then put them out afterwards. If they have an accident scold them and put them outside. They will catch on very quickly. If you start now to always take the pup to a specific point in the garden that is where they will learn to make their bathroom. It is a little extra effort in the beginning but well worth it for many years to come. None of our dogs will ever mess near the house, they all take off into the pasture every time. At eight weeks old when I open the barn door each morning all of the pups rush outside to do their business.

CHEWING

I have never had anything chewed, and they certainly have access to a good selection of boots and often tack from the horses. Quite often a pup will move the shoes etc. from one side of the room to the other, and a couple of hours later move them yet again. Try to give your pup something they can chew on especially as they lose their puppy teeth at around six months of age. A chunk of wood, large beef bones ( be sure they wont splinter) an old shoe or stuffed toy etc.

INSIDE/OUTSIDE

Your pup is going to be happiest outside a lot of the time, and I would recommend leaving them in the back garden or in a run outside rather than in a kennel if you feel you need to confine them. You will also find that house training is easiest when the pup spends a good deal of time outside - they wont want to go in the house! Having said this, I don’t think there is another breed that is so willing to adapt to the role of "Couch Potato" as an OES.

EXERCISE

If a pup is confined (as in a kennel) then when it is released it is probably going to be more rambunctious than ever, and will then need more exercise than a pup that is free to run around as it desires. If you enjoy gardening then you can expect to transplant a few seedlings as your pup will try to "help" you in the flower beds, but they will learn quickly that you disapprove and by the time they are six months old you shouldn’t have any more challenges.

WALKING

Don’t expect that your young pup will want to walk on a leash.. You probably have fifteen years to show off your new pet to the neighbourhood, whilst you will all be keen to take your turn at "pulling the puppy" this is not the way to go. Spend the first four months without a leash, bonding with your pup so that whenever you call they will come to you, purely happy to receive the attention. If possible take them to a large safe open area in the country to play. Then start by getting your pup used to wearing a collar before walking on a leash. Give your pup time. A leash can wait until your pup is four months old or more. By then they will have played with you sufficiently that they will want to follow you everywhere. Get them used to wearing a collar first. Then when you first put a leash on let the pup wander around with it trailing behind them. When it doesn’t pose a threat to your pup then it is time to take your first walk. It wont be long before your pup is pulling you along. Then it is time to buy a choke chain, be sure to learn how to put it on safely, then in no time at all your pup will respect your commands and you will enjoy your daily walks together.

CHILDREN

OES are wonderful playmates with the smallest of children, but keep in mind that what is play to the OES when they weigh 10 lbs is cute, but in six months they will probably weigh closer to fifty lbs and the same behaviour may not be acceptable - so start as you mean to go on. Lay down rules from day one. Don’t allow any nipping or jumping up on people of any age. You will notice that your pup treats young children differently than older ones, they have an instinct to be gentle and protect.

Emma & Saga
Emma
Emma tickles Saga

SUGGESTIONS TO PREPARE CHILDREN FOR A NEW PUPPY

First and foremost young children cannot contemplate time, if you tell them they are getting a new puppy they will expect it the next day and your waiting time is going to be worse than any journey of "are we there yet?"  I suggest you tell young children you would like to get them a puppy but you want to see how responsible they are, puppies need feeding and walking and grooming regularly, that if the children can show you they are responsible then you will get a puppy. Maybe make a chart that far exceeds the time you plan to wait for a pup.  Have a goal of so many gold stars every week for so many weeks and give out stars for responsible behavior. Keep in mind that no matter how disappointed your children are the adoption process is all based on date of deposit and even young children cannot jump the line.

TOYS

They don’t need expensive toys - they love to play tug of war with an old sock, or carry an empty margarine container around in their mouth. An old shoe will work wonders for teething problems a few months down the road.

DISCIPLINE

Don’t allow any jumping or play biting - it may be cute at 12lbs but is not cute at 50 lbs! A pup which likes to play bite or bark can be cured by firmly holding the mouth closed (be sure pup can still breath) and repeatedly say No NO No until pup stops resisting your hold. Then praise pup for submitting to you. If a pup persists with jumping up to people this can be stopped by lifting your knee to the pups chest just as he jumps and again saying No NO No. In these early days your pup may shy away if you clap your hands - this is because I clap my hands as I tell them "No" for any inappropriate behaviour. Little things like making sure your pup waits for you to go out thru a doorway first (rather than charging ahead of you) makes for a respectful relationship.

GONE ALL DAY

Don’t leave your pup with the run of the house while you are gone, not one of our own dogs or any of their pups (as far as I know) have ever damaged anything - but think like a dog! If they have the run of the house they will think it is their house - then when you come home they will think you are intruding in their space. You don’t want this relationship with your dog. Leave them in a run outside, in a garage, or in a confined area of the house, and bring them in the house with you when you come home.

TRAVELING

For safety a pup or dog should be in a kennel or crate when traveling. Two pups from previous litters have not traveled well, to avoid this becoming a problem especially if your pup gets nauseous in the car, take it with you on as many little trips as possible, even if you just ride around the block every night when they are small.

COMMUNICATION

If you have a problem of any kind call me so that I may help you thru it. Please keep in touch with photos and stories that I would be happy to post on our website: www.oldenglishsheepdogs.com

GUARANTEE

I personally guarantee all of our pups to be in good health, with no history of hip dysphasia , eye problems, thyroid, cancer or immune deficiency. When comparing to other breeders I suggest you check the number of pups born in a litter and the frequency of conception, healthy OES will conceive approx. every eight months and have healthy litters of 9 - 12 pups. Anything less than this suggest the health of the bitch may be questionable. I do not like pups to leave before they are eight weeks and am quite happy to keep pups with their mums for up to twelve weeks if that is more convenient for the new family.

VACCINATIONS

Pups are ready to leave their mums at approx 7 -8 weeks of age when they have their first vaccinations. You need to get their next booster shot one month later and the last booster another month after that. If you miss your next scheduled vaccination you will have to start from square one again. Remember your pup will not be immune to diseases like Parvo until all three boosters have been received and therefore you should not take them to public places until they have received all three booster shots. The Rabies vaccine can be given with the last booster shot. Please see the following recommendations of my veterinarian regarding vaccinations.

Puppies

  • 8 weeks Distemper/Parvo/Corona, De-worming

  • 12 weeks Distemper/Parvo/Corona

  • 16 weeks Distemper/Parvo/Bordetella, Rabies, start heart worm preventative

Dogs

  • Annual booster for Distemper/Parvo

  • Annual booster for Rabies

  • Heartworm preventative thru mosquito season

Optional:

  • Lyme

  • Bordetella

  • Flea Prevention

Your pet is at risk until the initial vaccination series is completed!

If even one of the initial series of vaccinations for your new young pet is missed or delayed, the window of opportunity for fatal disease is open wide! That is why it is so important to complete the initial vaccination series on time.

Canine Distemper

A widespread, often fatal disease. This neurological disorder is one of the most feared diseases of dogs. All dogs, even older dogs, should be vaccinated annually for distemper.

Canine Adenovirus

Causes infectious hepatitis and respiratory disease. Hepatitis caused by Adenovirus can cause severe liver damage or even death. Adenovirus is alo an important factor in kennel cough.

Bordetella Bronchiseptica (Canine Parainfluenza or Kennel Cough) is the most common bacteria implicated as a cause of respiratory disease in dogs. It is commonly involved in the development of canine cough. Frequently, many pets within a household or kennel will be simultaneously infected since it is highly contagious.

Canine Parvovirus

A disease of widespread occurrence that can cause severe dehydrating diarrhea and vomiting in dogs of any age. Parvovirus infections are particularly dangerous in young puppies. Treatment can be difficult since the disease progresses extremely fast.

Canine Coronavirus

A contagious intestinal disease causing vomiting and diarrhea in dogs of all ages.

Lyme Disease

A bacterial disease transmitted to pets and humans through the bite of a deer tick and also the brown dog tick. Neurologic and arthritis-like symptoms can occur. Although humans can also contract Lyme disease, we cannot catch it from our pets.

Rabies

A viral disease that attacks the central nervous system of dogs, cats, cattle, horses, wild animals and humans. Signs of the disease in animals include strange behaviour, erratic biting, choking or frothing of the mouth, and paralysis and death in its final stages. Dogs allowed to run free and in contact with wild animals are at greatest risk, but all pets and even horses should always be vaccinated against rabies.

CONTACT

Send an email telling about your family and the home you have waiting to bring your new puppy to.

Puppy Name Breeder E-mail Phone Number
Thrud Jacquie oescrossing@sasktel.net 306-544-2835
Eir Yvonne 77ranch@yourlink.ca 306-395-2737
Fulla Anne Marie mfrasl@hotmail.com 518-899-1678
Hel Sharon SharonRPaul@shaw.ca 650-857-1011

BUYING

Upon confirmation from the breeders that they can supply a pup to you, the breeders will send you via e-mail detailed information on the different options open to you to send a deposit is "transferred in trust" to the sellers account and held until the purchaser confirms satisfaction with their pup (within 48 hours). 

top